Dark patches on your skin develop when excess melanin is produced, often triggered by UV exposure. Humidity can affect ingredient penetration, and the right combinations can reduce melanin production and prevent further damage. Dermatologists in skin pigmentation Singapore use tyrosinase inhibitors, exfoliants, antioxidants, and barrier repair agents, each targeting different stages of pigmentation. Treatment varies depending on the type, such as melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne, or age spots, which require sustained treatment.
Vitamin C Serums
L-ascorbic acid concentrations between 10-20% can reduce pigmentation while remaining stable and tolerable, with a pH below 3.5 for proper penetration, which may cause tingling during initial use. It interrupts melanin synthesis and offers photoprotection when used under sunscreen. However, L-ascorbic acid oxidizes when exposed to light, air, or heat, turning yellow to brown as it degrades. Stabilized derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate maintain potency longer but penetrate differently. Morning application provides antioxidant protection, and combining vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid enhances stability and photoprotection. To extend its shelf life, store the product in dark glass bottles in cool, dry places, and discard it if it changes color due to oxidation.
Azelaic Acid Treatments
Azelaic acid (15-20%) targets abnormal melanocytes in melasma while leaving normal cells unaffected, making it ideal for pigmentation caused by hormones and UV exposure. It also offers antibacterial benefits for acne-prone skin. Prescription-strength 20% formulations may yield different results than over-the-counter 10% options. Azelaic acid is safe for use during pregnancy, unlike retinoids and hydroquinone, making it a continuous treatment option for pregnancy-related melasma. Gel formulations are better for tropical climates, as they absorb quickly without residue, while initial itching may resolve after 2-4 weeks of use
Kojic Acid Formulations
Kojic acid (1-4%) inhibits tyrosinase, preventing melanin formation by chelating copper, and is derived from fungal fermentation for a natural-origin appeal. However, stability issues arise as it oxidizes quickly in aqueous solutions, losing efficacy and turning yellow-brown. To address this, dipalmitate ester forms improve stability, while dark packaging and airless pumps preserve potency. Kojic acid’s efficacy can be enhanced in combination formulations, such as with arbutin to target multiple pigmentation pathways, or with licorice extract for its anti-inflammatory benefits, which help reduce irritation and contact sensitization.
Tranexamic Acid Products
Transexamic acid disrupts pigmentation through plasmin inhibition, reducing melanocyte activity triggered by UV exposure and inflammation. Topical formulations at 2-5% concentration provide localized treatment without systemic effects associated with oral administration.
This ingredient targets melasma’s vascular component, addressing the enlarged blood vessels that contribute to pigmentation. Regular application may reduce both pigment density and underlying vascularity.
- Serums penetrate quickly for treatment
- Essence formulations provide lighter textures suitable for layering
- Patch formulations deliver concentrated treatment to areas overnight
What Our Dermatologist Says
Product combinations can enhance results, with morning routines focusing on antioxidants and sun protection, starting with vitamin C serum, followed by niacinamide, and then sunscreen. Evening routines may involve a gentle cleanser, alternating chemical exfoliant with retinoid, and using azelaic or kojic acid on non-retinoid nights. Patch testing is crucial to avoid reactions, especially when trying new products, by applying them to a small area for 48 hours. Pigmentation treatment requires months for visible improvement, with ongoing maintenance necessary. Melasma, in particular, tends to recur, making long-term management key rather than expecting a permanent cure.
When to Seek Professional Help
- Pigmentation appearing suddenly or changing rapidly in size, color, or texture
- Dark patches with irregular borders or multiple colors within the same spot
- Pigmentation accompanied by itching, bleeding, or surface changes
- No improvement after three months of consistent over-the-counter treatment
- Worsening pigmentation despite regular sunscreen use and proper product application
- Severe irritation, burns, or unusual reactions to skincare products
- Pigmentation affecting quality of life or causing significant distress
Commonly Asked Questions
Can I use all these ingredients together?
Certain combinations may enhance results while others can cause irritation or reduce effectiveness. Vitamin C and niacinamide work well at different times of day, while retinoids and AHAs together may over-exfoliate. Building a routine gradually allows you to identify which combinations your skin tolerates.
Why does my pigmentation look darker before improving?
Treatments accelerate cell turnover, bringing deeper pigment to the surface before shedding. This temporary darkening may indicate the treatment is working. Additionally, surrounding skin may lighten first, creating contrast that makes spots appear darker initially.
How long should I continue treatment after pigmentation clears?
Maintenance treatment may help prevent recurrence, particularly for melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Consider reducing active ingredient concentration or frequency rather than stopping completely. Healthcare professionals often recommend continued use of sunscreen and antioxidants.
Which ingredient works for pigmentation?
Hydroquinone may provide visible results, often within 4-6 weeks. However, combination approaches using multiple ingredients at lower concentrations may provide long-term outcomes with fewer side effects than single strong ingredients.
Next Steps
Effective pigmentation treatment requires ingredient selection based on your specific condition, consistent application with appropriate sun protection, and patience for gradual results.
If you are experiencing dark patches, uneven skin tone, or stubborn pigmentation that hasn’t improved with over-the-counter treatments, consult a dermatologist to develop a targeted treatment plan.
